Magical Mountains

We spent three weeks in the beautiful mountains of Nepal in the Langtang region of the wonderous Himalayas doing the Langtang Trek and the Tamang Heritage Trail. Although this sounds intense, we weren't actually walking for that long, we took our time and made many stops along the way as we wanted to listen to our bodies and be able to take in the stunning scenery that so many people miss in a rush to get to the top in as few days as possible.

Pretty Views on the way up

Leaving my large backpack in Kathmandu, I took just a small bag with my camera, some warm clothes, torch, walking stick (the best thing anyone recommended me to take), 15 bars of snickers (the only time when it is acceptable to have one per day!) and a notebook. We didn't need more then this which was a liberating feeling. Needless to say I wore the same sweaty, smelly clothes for the whole three weeks which made it even better when we returned to Kathmandu to have a bag of clean clothes waiting and a hot shower/attached bathroom (ahh heaven as before we had to endure mainly cold showers which were seperate from the lodges so you had to go into the freezing cold to wee) plus a choice of food other than daal bhat, noodles and tibetan bread with omlette.

Steadliy climbing on up

We chose to do the Langtang trek because it is one of the lesser known walks that hasn't yet been overwhelmed by tourists. We also heard that you don't need a guide which really appealed to us as we wanted to go at our own pace and have freedom to stay where we wanted and just be antisocial and spend time together. Lucky for us it was the end of the season so we saw very few other people and found it easy to find places to stay. The accomodation was wonderful consisting of small, wooden, charming lodges heated by open fires (which was needed as it got colder and colder the higher we climbed and the closer to snow we got). Thanks to Lucy learning to knit in Rishikesh, I had a nice cozy, woolen hat to wear.

One of the amazing lodges that we slept at in the forest

We saw some of the most beautiful sights I'd ever seen and it was fascinating to watch the landscape change as we climbed higher and higher - from forests to valleys to snow capped mountains and glaciers. There are not enough words to do it justice. The walking was not always easy, we climbed alot of steps and sometimes got caught in the rain or the icy wind. But walking for hours and being outdoors all day in nature just gives you such a feeling of satisfaction at the end of the day.

The usual forest traffic jam

We were also privelleged to encounter a great deal of Tibetan culture as the mountains border with Tibet and many Tibetans now live here. It was intruiging and we were so lucky to be invited to an event at one of the monastries along the way. Unfortunately some locals had been killed in an avalanche, one of problems of living so high up in the mountains is that you are so vulnerable to nature's harsh ways. Everyone gathered to mourn their death, however I'm pleased to say that it was more of a celebration of their lives. Together everyone shared food and drinks (including roxy, the local brew which is not very appetising) and I felt so honoured to be allowed to attend, these are really very kind and generous people.

The Buddhist Monastry where the celebration was held

One of many cute, red cheeked Tibetan toddlers running around the monastry

The women sat downstairs chanting the same song over and over again whilst the men made music upstairs and performed prayers. Lots of toddlers ran around being left to their own devices and I must have lifted up around ten different kids so many times saying 'oooohh paahhh' - everyone wanted 'oooo pahh'! The children in the mountains are by far the sweetest and friendliest ones I've ever met and I had so much fun being a child myself and playing with them at different points along the way. I loved it!

Playing horsey with one of my favourites kids

We particularly enjoyed the company of Lama, a lady that became our Tibetan mother as she looked after us for six days when we stayed at the top of a mountain at around 3000m. She took us under her wing and made sure we always had enough to eat and that there was enough wood on the fire. She also took us out to look for 'Yatsah Gumpa' which, from what I can make out, is some sort of rare mushroom, that originally starts off as an insect. They look like small sprouts of grass coming out of the ground and are therefore very difficult to spot so you have to get down on your knees and crawl around to find them, which Lucy and I did for three hours without finding a single one! However they are worth a great deal of money in China as they are supposedly extremely good for your health and are somewhat of a delicacy. Looking back I don't think that we should have been part of picking them, however sadly whether we were there or not people will continue to look for them as they are so valuable.

Lamu showing Lucy Yatsah Gumpa

My other highlights include a walk down the valley towards a huge glacier at the top of the mountain with Lucy. We originally got up at 5am equipped with our warmest clothes and packed lunch with the intention to climb the highest peak. We started off sleepily, but in good spirits however we gradually came to realise that we were climbing the wrong peak! Only we could make this mistake - we found the path we'd taken was getting gradually more steep and dangerous so we decided that mini rock slides weren't too promising and it would be better to climb down. So instead we walked the whole day down the rocky valley, just the two of us, singing our hearts out (which is one of my favourite ever mountain activities), having heart to hearts, absorbing the incredible scenery, drinking warm tea from our Thermos flask and appreciating life and one another. It was such a magical day.

Me, my wooly hat and the stunning ice capped mountains

Lucy and Ren alone in the mountains

I was also touched by the sweetness of the Tibetan people and how hospitable they were. One night I felt some slight altitude sickness (partly to do with over exerting myself after all the 'ooo pah pah'ing with the kids) and had such a thumping headache that I couldn't speak. I just sat by the fire trying to keep warm and waiting for the pain to ease. But then when I went to bed, one of the Tibetan girls came to my room (which had no door only a cloth) and made me get in my sleeping bag and then proceeded to pile three thick woolen blankets over me and then tuck them under my body. I felt so warm and cosy and touched by how caring the girl was as I haven't been tucked into bed for years! Despite being half way up a mountain, thousands of meters from home in pain, I still felt a sense of calm and ease from this and these kind of moments make me really happy and appreciative. I also am indebted to the girl's father who leant me a huge thick, bomber jacket for when I went furthjer up the mountain as the clothes that I had just weren't enough, he really saved me as without it I would not have been able to appreciate the place.

High altitude yoga with a view was so amazing

I'd never been trekking in my life, however it was without a doubt one of the best experience of my life that I'll keep reminising about as it's such a good memory. I am so glad that I got to share the experience with Lucy as no one else will quite know the amazing atmosphere that we felt when it was just the two of us in the spectacular nature with not a soul in sight. We experienced true, freezing cold nature, beautiful fresh air, morning yoga in the most beautiful place, Tibetan culture, hot spring, cute kids, singing to the wind and also made some Israeli friends along the way who taught us a great deal about Israeli culture. The mountains were tough, but without a singel doubt well worth it. Magical Himalayan Mountains I won't forget you.