Festivals and Friends

Next for the fun…… having recovered from my illness and after six months of listening to very little music, we heard on the traveller grapevine that there was going to be a music festival in Pokhara, the beautiful lakeside resort in Nepal. Because I desperately needed my music/dance fix I jumped at the chance to go and managed to persuade Lucy after some perseverance. With Lucy on board I looked forward to the music, atmosphere and great weather.

The beautiful lake in Pokhara

The festival, called Mountain Madness, was oddly located on the grounds of a five star hotel.It was extremely surreal to see hoardes of scruffy looking travellers camped on the neatly mowed and maintained hotel lawn. I later discovered the reason for this is that the hotel is massively failing, is in huge debt and hence to resolve its financial issues has had to resort to hosting a massively loud festival in their vicinity. We has forty eight hours of heavy, pounding trance music which duely danced to as that's what we came for, but god I realised how much I can't stand Trance music. I'd honestly expected there to be some variety in the music but actually it was all along these lines (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIgAgo7owX8) - too much too much!

People dancing away to the mad trance music

Despite the terrible music and all of the promised 'ayuvedic massage', 'yoga camp' and 'world food' not actually being there we had alot of fun. I had my first beer for months and we had the most incredible storm I have ever seen (so much for the good weather). The lightening was so intense and frequent that at first I assumed that it must have been strobe lighting coming from the main stage. Lucy and I prided ourselves on the fact we managed to accidently fall asleep in our tent at 11.30pm on the second night when we popped back for a snack. How it happened when our tent was just 30m from the thudding, pounding music of the mainstage I can't believe. We must be hardened travellers from India as literally every guesthouse we stayed in would have some form of noise throughout the night. Indians can literally sleep anywhere and through anything. It was great waking up fresh faced and going to dance again in the morning when most of the festival goers looked, well lets say a bit worse for wear, after a whole night of trance and partying hard.

What most of the festival goers looked like after 2 days of partying!

Camping on the hotel lawn

Post festival we dashed over to Nepal's capital of Kathmandu, which I was to end up spending about 5 weeks in in total over my time in Nepal. I expected chaos, noise and havoc, but after an Indian city it is relatively calm, however I can't say it was clean, the air pollution was horrific and I've never seen such a horrible river full of trash. We came to Kathmandu as we were meeting one of our best friends from England - Kate who came to visit for two weeks. After six whole months away it was great to catch up with a friend from home and it was great to see her reactions as she was still a bit overwhelmed by the beeping horns and mad traffic that we have just learnt to ignore. Over the fortnight we explored many parts of Kathmandu and the surrounding valley -and to complete my transformation into a real traveller I brought myself a cheap, small guitar!

Kate and I drinking Cheeah (tea) in the streets of Kathmandu

We were privileged to meet a local Nepalese man who took us to see one of the three famous Kumaris (living goddess) in and around Kathmandu. Nepal is the only country in which they believe that a living person can be a god. The Kumari is bound to her house, apart from during festivals when she is taken on a throne through the streets of Kathmandu, but her feet cannot touch the ground. To become a Kumari the child must go through a series of difficult tests and fulfill a list of strict criteria, she remains the Kumari until she sheds blood, as of course gods can't bleed, which is usually at menstruation. After this she is suddenly no different from any other person and is expected to live a normal life. To me it's all crazy, it was a very strange experience but it's supposed to be an honourto meet her so we are lucky!

Meeting the renowned Kumari

We visited many sites around Kathmandu including Patan and Bhaktapur (cities with a great deal of cultural heritage and beautiful buildings) and Bodha, a quieter part of Kathmandu where there is a beautiful Buddhist stupa, complete with endless prayer flags and the chanting of this song (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iG_lNuNUVd4) which are imprinted in my mind forever and will always remind me of Nepal (even though technically its Tibetan!). We drank copious amounts of chai and sat talking at the guesthouse for hours about home, life, philosophy, love, nature, science - everything. Then we taught Kate the Indian mantra songs we'd learnt in Rishikesh. They're just really short songs, but they are great to sit and sing for hours on end, you just zone into the tune and lose yourself. They are going to annoy the hell out of my family, friends and neighbours on my return!

Kate, Renee and Lucy in Patan

Kate also managed to persuade us to get in touch with our adventurous side by going rafting. As yet we hadn't really done anything to get our adrenaline rushing so it was an extremely fun experience. We laughed at our pathetic attempts to row until the instructor shouted so loudly at us "LEFT SIDE FORWARD" and I felt a paddle hit me on the head. After that I started really listening. The first day was easy but the second day the rapids were actually quite a challenege. However the highlight has to be when our boat capcized (a practice run of course) and we all climbed back in only to find kate with her trousers down which, because they were so heavy and wet, she was struggling to pull up. Wow she really was the instructors favourite after that!

The three girlies at the Stupa in Bodha

I really like Kathmandu as a city. It's not too big so it is easy to explore, people are so welcoming and friendly and we found a great guesthouse to stay it. It was in an enclove tucked away from the busy street and had a peaceful garden and chillout area meaning that you didn't really feel like you were in a mad city. The only major downfall was the horrific air pollution. Apart from that I have only good things to say about our time here.

Exploring is tiring work

A new chapter

Having been all consumed by India for five and a half months, I'd not even had the chance to imagine what Nepal would be like, but after five and a half months of travel in 'the motherland' my visa was finished and I was about to enter a whole new world. I was overwhelmed by how different Nepal is from India and how much influence a border can have on culture and attitudes. If anyone is considering visiting these countries I would highly recommend doing India first as once you have travelled there exploring Nepal is a walk in the park whereas the other way round you would find yourself deeply out of your comfort zone.

Bardia National Park - no Indians looking at me!

It felt amazing to be able to walk down the street without anyone batting an eyelid. In India you get so many wide eyed looks and endless requests for photos, so ironically within the freedom of travelling you still feel somewhat constrained. As a Western female I found it generally very hard to interact with locals. I felt the majority of Indian men genuinely have a very wrong impressions of what Western women are like (which isn't that surprising having seen what kind of media they are exposed). As a result I avoided talking to many men, only if they looked over perhaps forty or were clearly very educated did I feel comfortable enough which frustrated me as I enjoy talking to different people! As for the women, I would have loved to communicate more with them yet often they were very unresponsive, not even returning a smile. I've been given a few explanations for this by Indians including that they don't expect to be talked to by a foreigner (perhaps who is so 'above' them in the caste system) and also they feel threatened because of how obsessed theIndian men are with white females. So in an odd way unless you stay somewhere for a long time on a project or live with a family, it is hard to interact. Despite these difficulties, I am still constantly amazed and fascinated by India and I guess its part of the learning curve!

I had to resort to talking to goats instead

But Nepal is the complete opposite. I felt like the people, both male and female, were incredibly friendly and lovely to talk to. I never felt intimidated and they are very liberal, laid back and light hearted. It was such a relief to not have to be so much on my guard and it was great to be able to wear sleeveless tops again with the heat in the cities without worrying about what people would be thinking. Although they still have many traditions, they are more Westernised in terms of dress and things like eating meat and drinking alcohol (not that I really did either). They have a better understanding of how foreigners like to be treated giving them more space and hospitality. In India customer service, facilities and ambiance in guesthouses are often lacking (broken toilets, dodgy cables, plain walls, no furniture, staff that aren't so welcoming, pillows you would not want to lay your head on!) yet the Nepalese understand much better what Westerners like and are good at providing this.

Our tranquil accommodation in Bardia

We had the excitement of entering Nepal through the Western border which is not a common entry route among tourist. Immediately we got a taste of the transport we would have for the next few months - bumpy buses that feel like you are on a rollercoaster. To keep your bum on the seat really requires you to use all the strength in your leg muscles otherwise you are more than likely to hit your head on the ceiling (which doesn't happen to the Nepalese as they are so short).

Our first destination was Bardia National park, largely ignored by travellers who enter Nepal from a different direction. It is described as being what Chitwan National Park (Nepal's most popular wildlife destination) was like twenty years before and it really did feel like we were the only tourists there. Staying in a nice jungle hut, we spent some days relaxing, learning Nepalese phrases and getting accustomed to the Nepalese traditional food which is called Daal bhat and is somewhat like Indian food but plainer (rice, daal, veg and pickle).

We had a hilarious experience in the park on our day of wildlife spotting. We were required to have a guide to enter the main park but it turns out that he just wasn't very good! First we heard tales of his three near death experiences which didn't reassure us that we were with the right person. After explaining to us just how dangerous the wild animals were, such as the tigers and elephants, he set off at top speed leaving us to chase after him. It felt like we were on an army training course, no sooner did we catch up with him, he'd be off again having no sense that we may need to rest because of the muggy heat. When I stopped to tie my shoe lace he almost lost us because he just didn't wait and by the end of the day we were exhausted, but about twice as fit.

Renee keeping up with Rambo in Bardia National Park

I also realised how much respect I have for wildlife documentary makers who have to sit there for hours on end waiting to capture a shot. It's all great when there are animals to entertain you, but we sat there for hours at a time, waiting to see something without much luck. Somehow given a 24 hour train journey or a child that can't pronounce a word I can have infinite patience, yet when it comes to waiting around to see an animal, I was so restless. To be fair it wasn't helped by the fact I really need new glasses and even when we finally saw a rhino, I am convinced it was just a rock as I really couldn't see it. One of the problems of being away for so long! However eventually we did get to see a wild elephant, which was so big it was hard to miss, but that was a nice moment.

If you look very close there is a wild elephant somewhere in here!

Next was the town of Tansen which I can't say much about as I was sick for the six days we were there. My stomach problems began on the bus journey there which made it quite a scarring experience but at least when I arrived we stayed in a lovely homestay. The owner thought I was some strange loner who didn't want to come out of my room and couldn't understand that all I needed was water, a bed and to be near the toilet! On this occassion I tried drinking excessive amounts of rehydration liquid and starving myself for 48 hours to get rid of the bug. I had to grind my teeth as I lay in my bed listening to Lucy munch away at her biscuits whilst I went hungry. It was actually quite easy for the first day but then it became very hard. Unfortunately after this didn't work, I was so weak I had to take antibiotics.

Once I recovered I was taught how to make the Tibetan dish 'Momos' - Yummmm

However in Tansen I was lucky to meet a very inspiring sixty year old lady from the Netherlands who had just completed a course of Vipassana Meditation (http://www.dhamma.org/en/vipassana.shtml) . This is a Tibetan Buddhist technique in which you meditate in a very specific way through sitting and observing your breath and body for hours on end each day. You have to endure much physical pain and come to terms with all of your emotions. Other rules are that you cannot talk, read, write or do any exercise. She did this for two months stating her reason as being that after a difficult break up from her partner of thirty years she wanted to be at peace before she dies. She was very interesting to talk to and seemed very calm. She helped me to try and be more Buddhist in my attitude towards my sickness by accepting it and seeing that it is just like everything else - transient, something that will come and go. This really worked well for me (for the first five instances when I was ill!) but I can't even begin to say how fed up I am of stomach problems, since coming to Nepal I've had about seven different occasions. Yet living the traveller lifestyle for so long it is unavoidable and therefore what to do, what to do??? This is my new favourite phrase which works for every problem and sounds particularly good said in a Ukranian accent (Thanks Vika).

The town of Tansen

Dreaming in Rishikesh

Reflecting back on our time in Rishikesh, I literally can't help but smile. It's one of those times in my life that I will never forget and those five weeks felt like being awake in the most brilliant dream. We'd not planned to stay so long but not having any time constrains on our travels one week turned into two weeks, two into three and before we knew it time had flown by. Yet we still couldn't seem to leave. The weather, the people, the events, the yoga - we really felt like we were in exactly the right place at the right time.

Chilling on the beach with our new found Rishikesh friends

Before going there I was cynical of Rishikesh 'yoga capital of the world'. What would I be faced with? Commercialised yoga classes and grey haired hippies? So to set the record straight - yes there are alot of classes and some questionable yoga teachers who just aren't very good and really should not be teaching. Having said that, you can't beat the variety of styles, classes and courses available. It was enjoyable having the time to try the many drop in classes and different teachers. Plus it is viable as lessons are a fraction of the price of what you'd pay in England. By the end we discovered a great Ashtanga teacher who really pushed us and I would love to go back to. It felt so great to be giving my body and mind so much attention.

Jam sessions at the Bombay Guesthouse were a regular occurrence

And as for the hippies....... well it turned into a case of if you can't beat em, join em. Before I knew it I was happily walking around barefeet and spending my evenings in laid back, hazy, comfy cafes listening to people jamming and playing their instruments together. I wasn't alive in the 70's but it reminded me of what I imagine it may have felt like! I absolutely loved meeting such open minded and interesting people with a different take on life. I became so much more of an idealist and why not? Life's a lot more fun when your positive about everything and it's easily done when you are completely free. Don't worry .... be hippy :-)

Rishikesh, unlike my other destinations, certainly wasn't really a place to learn about Indian culture. It has a completely different feel and atmosphere because of the mix of well off Indians coming for a day or two and the many foreigners. You retain elements, as you are surrounded by ashrams and religious traditions, however it is definitely its own bubble. What I like was that it was excellent for meeting a different crowd of people, those who aren't really tourists as they don't come for a short two week holiday, they are real travellers who, like me, are in the country for a long time to get a different kind of experience. A great part of this trip is just to live and to learn.

The location of Rishikesh is amazing. Set in the woody foothills of the Himalayas, the town is next to the sacred river Ganges which is incredibly lined by clean, sandy beaches that remind you of being on a beach holiday. We were highly surprised by how clear and fresh the water was here, given the stark contrast of the disgusting, brown, pungent water in Varanasi. We experienced many a day chilling out on the beach and after some time I learnt that it is even possible to swim for half a km down the river which was a truely exhilarating as the water is freezing and the view stunning. It was so much fun to float along in a group, singing as we went, and then basking in the sun on the beach to warm up again. I had to laugh at the Indian tourists who took pictures of me soaking wet, completely covered in sand.

Being a kid and building sandcastles on a lovely sunny day!

Lucy and I stayed at a simple ashram paying just one pound per night each for a decent room, with a balcony overlooking the street. There was a temple where the owners prayed each day, but aside from that it was an ordinary guesthouse, not really an ashram, as there were no strict rules or routine as you'd otherwise expect. We got into the habit of getting up each morning to do two hours of gentle Hatha yoga after which we felt like we deserved a large breakfast from the German Bakery across the street which was a sociable spot for meeting people.

The first yoga teacher that we had was nice enough, but we soon learnt from him exactly what a good yoga teacher should not do as he had no regard for different students level and never asked whether anyone had any injuries. We tried a 'meditation' class with him explaining that I'd not done much and Lucy had never done it before and by the end we were still clueless. We heard unclear muttering in the dark as we sat uncomfortably for an hour. It was very strange but I guess quite funny!

Visiting one of the many near by waterfalls

In between yoga classes there was much to do in Rishikesh - relax on the beach, go for walks, visit waterfalls, meet people from around the world in a vast array of chilled, comfy cafes which serve delicious drinks. It made a pleasant change to have some more Western style places to sit with nice seats and lovely views. I love Indian food so much but the culture of sitting around for long periods of time to eat and drink just doesn't exist. Their cafes or eathouses are called 'dabbas' which are designed just to eat quickly and then you are expected to leave. No effort is made with decor, ambience or cleanliness! Yet the beauty of Rishikesh is that you still have the cheap and delicious dabbas and street food, alongside the relaxed cafes. In other words, the best of both worlds.

Fun exploring the abandoned Beatles Ashram

A trip to the now abandoned Beatles ashram was certainly worth it. For a small bribe you can enter the grounds of the place where the Beatles spent much time in India. It's fascinating to walk around the overgrown, crazily designed buildings including the 'eggs' which have a living space in the bottom and a pod in the top for meditation (which you have to use a ladder to climb into). The place must have felt so different when 300 hippies used to live there. We went there in a group of three, which swelled along the way to eight (plus a guitar) so before I knew it we were there listening to music, taking the atmosphere in together.

I heard on the grapevine about a 'Rainbow Gathering' that would be taking place whilst we were in Rishikesh. From this I gathered that it was some sort of party, which sounded good as I really wanted to dance after six months away. This was completely wrong. At Rainbow Gatherings people come together for a month to live with one another in different locations around the world (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rainbow_Gathering).

Rainbow Gathering on the stunning beach

I could write a whole other blog entry just for my six days at the gathering as I've never done anything like it. From talking to others that attended, this gathering wasn't very well organised, mainly because it had to move three times dues to issues with the location. However I really loved spending those six days being on the beach next to the Ganges, 7km outside of Rishikesh. I've never lived in a community before and it was so nice to sleep outside on the sand, cook together, eat together, sit around the fire at night listening to music and singing and also being there for the night of the biggest full moon in 18 years. I met some really inspiring, kind, enthusiastic people who I will definitely remember. I would love to attend another better organised, gathering at some point as I found it a really wonderful experience.

Cooking chappatis on the fire at Rainbow Gathering

So that was Rishikesh - happy memories, wonderful new friends and many a lessons on how life can be lived in a lighthearted way with ease, especially if you go with the flow and let your mind be open to new things. I have a funny feeling that I will be back......

Crazy Varanasi

We spent one week in Varanasi, which for Hindus is the holiest of all Indian cities. It was both fascinating and exhausting. People come there to bathe, perform prayers and wash away their sins in the sacred river Ganges. Ironically the poor river is dangerously polluted and murky by the time it reaches Varanasi and so travelers are advised not to go in. Hindus also come to cremate their relatives and friends as it is auspicious to do so here. It is thought by them that this breaks the cycle of rebirth as they believe in reincarnation i.e. that your behavior in this life dictates into which form you will be born next life.

The holy river Ganges next to the ghats in Varanasi

Varanasi is unlike any other city I have ever seen. Ghats, or series of steps leading to the water, line the side of the Ganges for a few kilometers and are home to a bustle of Indian life and activity. Behind the ghats are a huge number of narrow, confusing alleyways where traffic cannot go and in which you can get instantly lost giving the place a unique feel. We had a particular incident in which we got stuck behind such a fat cow (they are very well fed and large animals out here) who was blocking the alley reaching the entrance to our guest house. In India cows come first and humans come second so we had to wait until he decided to move on as we have not yet mastered the art of slapping them on the bum as the locals do. Then behind the alleys is the 'real' city of Varanasi which resembles most cities in India - dirty, loud, crowded and in a nutshell crazily hectic.

I have very mixed feelings about my time in Varanasi. Sliding around the alleys in cowshit is somewhat amusing for a while, particularly when I have smugly invested in some decent sandals and could therefore laugh at others in flip flops getting their feet covered in poo. However I think it felt quite peculiar to be back with other travelers and to feel like a tourist again after all those months of rural living. Interacting with local Indians, you're treated as a cashpoint and it's harder to make a personal connection which Lucy and I both found really difficult. It was also very crowded everywhere which I was no longer used to, which was quite overwhelming.

Me getting scared of the cows

Still, our guest house had a rooftop overlooking the city, with a good atmosphere which became our hideaway from the chaotic life below. Here it was nice to sit and chill, watching the monkeys scurry from building to building. At one point I almost had my lonely planet stolen by one that bravely jumped on the table and grabbed it in its hands before realising that it wouldn't be very tasty.

The view from our guest house rooftop overlooking the city

The guest house was situated in Manikarnika Ghat, a bit of an odd choice of location given that it is the main burning ghat (for dead bodies!) however we were far enough away that we couldn't smell the fumes or see the flames. We spent an evening sitting on the steps watching the cremations take place. I actually found it quite relaxing to watch the fires burn but probably more so than others because I really need new contact lenses therefore wasn't able to make out the corpses being cremated. Yet other people described seeing bursting veins, skin melting and feet falling off - lovely! Occasionally you would hear a loud 'pop' which apparently is the head bursting. It may all sound a bit crude, but in all seriousness, for Hindus these are sacred ceremonies and therefore we had to show respect by sitting quietly and not taking pictures. Yes there are many tourists who do wish to take pictures of this. However luckily for those people postcards are readily available. My favourite quote in Varanasi being 'I think I prefer the ones (postcards) in which they are pouring petrol on the dead bodies'. Classy.

Lucy and I with one of the locals (and this one is small!)

We did the typical tourist activity of taking a boat ride along the Ganges before sunrise. With the mist, floating candles and bells ringing all around it felt very magical and surreal. We watched Indians perform poojas (prayers) and bathing in the freezing cold water. Our guide taught us that not all Hindus are cremated as for 'pure' beings (pregnant women, children and holy men to name a few) this is not required, they can simply be thrown in the river. This is all very well until monsoon when they wash up onto the shore and have to be pushed back into the middle to sink.

Yet what I most enjoyed doing in Varanasi was sitting on the steps and people watching for hours. It gives you such an insight into Indian life. You watch people sipping chai, praying, washing their clothes, playing cricket and cards, skipping (perhaps to warm up after the swim?), getting a haircut, an ear clean, a shoe scrub, sweeping the streets - a vast of array of activities that I enjoyed just observing. Getting lost in the back alleys was also fun, stumbling out of the tourist area of cafes and guest houses, back into mental Indian life of fruit and veg stalls, sweet and tobacco shops, horns, animals and delicious street food. Being lost makes me feel more alive in a strange way - I think it's the feeling of having no idea where you are which excites me.

Varanasi is without a doubt a must see. It really portrays a wide spectrum of Indian life which is so interesting, however one week is enough for me. Also, I've never seen so many men publicly urinating as in Varanasi, strange but true and a little off putting. When there is so much beautiful nature close by, city life is just not what Lucy and I want, which is why we knew that it felt right to move on to the next destination. However, I have a feeling that I will be back here and need to give it another chance.

Journeys to remember

There's the old saying that that the journey is just as important as the destination, which is why I wish to share the stories of my recent journeys. When we left the school, Lucy and I had an odd situation involving a policeman. As Jharkhand is such a poor and 'dangerous' state, foreigners are required to register their arrival and departure with the local police. On our arrival, there had been no policemen around at the station, which is always reassuring, but on our departure we met a superintendent whose English was almost impossible to understand, yet he really seemed to think it was quite good. Not wanting to offend or annoy the man, as the police here are so corrupt - you do not want to mess with them, we obligingly sat and drank chai with him despite being very aware we had a bus to catch. We nodded our heads a the right times and ended up somehow apologising that we had only learnt a little Hindi and had not mastered the local languages.

After further miscommunication, it became clear the meeting was coming to and end. He stood up and ripped a page of his newspaper in half and handed it to us. We were so confused as to why. Was it to clean our hands after the sweets we'd eaten, or was it to read the article which was written in Hindi? Our bemused faces finally prompted him to say in his Indian accent ' Toilet Paper!!!'. Of course, how considerate he is of us Westerners and our crazy habit of using loo roll. So it just goes to show that even slightly intimidating policeman are considerate and show us their good intentions.

The second tale is of our travels from Kolkata to Bodhgaya. We had booked a train to take us there and had left an hour and a half to get to the train station which, stupidly, was not enough time. We still don't know why, but it was impossible to get a taxi. It's not that there were none, the street was full of them, beeping away, emitting their disgusting fumes, but they were all occupied, or those which weren't refused point blank to stop for us despite our manic waving. When a huge traffic jam had formed, we were able to get into the road and walk between the taxis to try and get in a vacant one, but no amount of money could persuade the drivers to go.

It was then we began swearing to ourselves, getting hot and bothered with our heavy bags, wondering what we could do as the clock was really ticking. Just then a well dressed Indian man, who looked like he's just finished work, stepped in to help the damsels in distress. He too tried, without any luck, to get a taxi so he indicated to us the we follow him through the traffic. He led us toward and eventually onto the busy, hectic four lane main road in the absoloutely crazy, noisy, Kolkata rushhour. A red traffic light meant that we were able to get right into the middle of the huge crossroad. Before we knew it cars sped dangerously past us and the man was trying to hail taxis that were about 30m away. Somehow this technique worked as a taxi stopped so we ran over and jumped in, thanking the Indian who had gone out of his way to help us. But the race wasn't over yet...

Madness at Howrah Station, Kolkata

When we explained what a rush we were in, the taxi driver was amazing. He made such an effort to get through the mad traffic. He really had to push hard to make any leeway and pulled a few questionable, dodgy manouveres to progress, but we really appreciated it. We had just ten minutes as we pulled into the station and gave the driver double what the fare should be for his hard work. Next problem - finding the bloody station entrance in the sea of people. Howrah is India's busiest railway station with two million people passing through each day. You'd think it would be better signposted! Through the crowds there was no obvious way in and we got stuck behind some sort of iron barrier that we hadn't been able to see. We attempted to squeeze through with out large bags but it just was not happening. A kind Indian who'd noticed the trouble we were having led us around, pushing our way through the crowds. Thankgod once we were in we could immediately see on the departure board what platform we needed to go to. The adrenaline pumping, we ran to our train and made it - hot, sweaty and panting, one whole minute before the train departed. Now that was intense.

The last journey was from Varanasi to Rishikesh, another epic overnight train in sleeper class (the cheap and cheerful way of travelling) yet actually the most enjoyable. The promise that we'd be in the 'women's only' carriage was a farce as aside from one other lady, we were the only women(!). It didn't matter though as all day we chatted to Indians getting on and off the train about our experiences of India, sharing stories of our lives at home, our families and looking at one anothers pictures. One man in particular, who spoke good English, was also making the same long journey and was able to tell us when to get off the train which can be a great source of confusion. He really took us under his wing and every time a new person got on the train he took great joy in explaining to them that we had been teaching English in Jharkhand and that we were able to speak and understand a little Hindi. It was as if he was a proud parent! We received smiles, nods of agreement and lots of encouragement. It was so lovely.

The smiley kid on our train to Rishikesh

We also had a nice encounter with a child of, I'm guessing around two, who was tottering around the carriage unsupervised, getting lots of attention from all passengers. He had the biggest grin on his face and kept peering at us and then running away and giggling. Later I was happy to lift him up onto my lap so that he could stand and look out of the window. He was so cute and amused us for a good hour as he kept attempting to climb up on to the seat but not quite managing it. Eventually we witnessed the moment of triumph, when he learnt how to pull his whole body weight up onto the bench. It was our turn to feel like proud parents.

That afternoon India were playing England in the Cricket World Cup Semi Final, a really huge deal out here. Cricket is part of the nations psyche and pride. The whole journey we grinned widely and said 'ahhhh' every time an update on the score was given because we had no idea what the score actually meant because we know nothing about the rules of cricket and didn't have the heart to tell them. We couldn't even tell who was winning, needless to say we have brushed up on our basic knowledge since.

Looking back on these events leaves me smiling. What are supposed to be the difficult and horrible parts of travelling i.e. the journeys, create memories that I won't forget. I've never met so many selfless strangers as I do on my journeys throughout India. It's touching, inspiring and really makes me think. I'm now more inclined to help strangers and am pleased as, at the moment living this traveller lifestyle, I am able to do so as I'm not concerned about being late for something (erhem apart from trains!) or having deadlines. It's made me want to share more as so many generous Indians have bought us water, chai, samosas, sweets and so on, asking for nothing in return, despite having considerably less wealth. Perhaps their wealth is their ability to share and be kind which I've come to see that we have really lost. Clearly there are kind and generous people in the West, but on a day to day basis people care so much more for one another here. So with these new ideas in mind, I am happy to say that I'm gaining more of this 'wealth' each day of my travels, in spite on my declining bank balance. :-)

Back to School

Returning to the school it was nice to see all of the kids again and good not to have to go through the difficult process of getting to know everyone's names, ability and personality. This time I was teaching Class 4 (as previously) and Class 1 who I'd never taught before. I was a bit concerned about teaching this class as they were much younger than anyone I'd ever taught before (around sixish, although the eldest was perhaps twelve). This meant that their level of English was very basic - they knew the alphabet and some simple words. They were also known from being the loudest class and being very animated so I was a little apprehensive.

Singing with Class One

Of course they turned out to be a pleasure to teach. They were indeed loud which I quickly had to adjust to, but they were so keen and clearly happy to have a teacher. They really progressed in the time I was with them and I'll always remember the way in which they would ask me whether they should put a 'full stop' in a sort of cute English accent as they'd learnt the word from me. Awwww! They were so keen that as soon as they'd finished the work I'd set, they would march to the front with their books and form a queue to get their work marked. To them a tick, is the ultimate reward. If there was ever a rucus in the line, a threat to not mark their book made them stand to attention and behave.

Class One at the temple

Initially the language barrier seemed like a big obstacle but in many ways it worked to my advantage as it really encouraged me to learn Hindi. In trying to learn Hindi from scratch, I completely understood exactly what kind of words and phrases would also be useful for them to learn. I'd ask the elder Class 4 students how to say a phrase in Hindi (for example 'I am okay') and would learn the phrase. I'd then use this phrase to teach Class 1 the English. That's part of why I am enjoying being away so much as I feel like I'm exchanging so much knowledge. Although I was the teacher, I learnt just as much from the kids as they learnt from me.

Class Four (my Hindi teachers!)

Learning about the area in which I was working was also extemely important to me and one of the other things that I enjoyed most. I found out about the area's demographic, religions, the caste system, the many languages spoken, the issues surrounding work, education and poverty. Trying to understand India's caste system is extremely interesting. At first glance it makes no sense for society to be organised in a way whereby people are boxed into groups which dictate their level of power, respect, profession, wealth and education. It goes against everything that we believe in which teaches us that we are all equal and are entitled to improve out life chances and circumstances. It is so complex, however I'm beginning to understand more about the nature of the system. It is so heavily embedded into everyday life by things such as religion and family that I can't say that it is wrong. Learning more about it, there does also seem to be much logic to it's organisation. Anyway that's something I could speak in much depth about as Lucy and I often do!

Waiting for the flag to be raise on Republic Day

I'm lucky enough to have been staying during the festival season. The Winter season brings relief from the heat and is an ideal time for celebrations and weddings. First there was Diwali (5th November) also known as the Festival of Light. Ironically this coincides with Bonfire night in England and as is not actually that dissimilar apart from the fact they let the children light the fireworks themselves and let them run around holding sparklers without a care in the world. Then there was also a three day harvest festival called Makar Sankrati (14th January) going on outside the walls of the school which consisted of 24 hours a day drumming. Without warning one evening around fifty dancing and drumming villagers came to the school to collect an offering of puffed rice. Lucy and I obliging joined in the dance (although it was more like a sway from side to side to the beat of the drum). We got very confused as to whether we were following them or they were following us! Apparently they carry on with these activities aided by Mahoba juice (the local alcohol) until they get tired.

Performing prayers and giving offerings at Saraswati Puja

Republic Day (26th January) celebrates the day the Indian constitution was formed. A special assembly was held in which the national anthem was sung and the Indian flag was raised after the Prime Minister's speech was given. Saraswati Puja (5th February) was particularly fitting as this celebration pays respects to the Goddess of learning - Saraswati. The children fast in the morning and bring in offerings of fresh fruit which we sat and chopped together. It was nail biting to have to sit and watch a group of ten young children casually using knives (luckily extremely blunt). Just another one of those things that would not happen in England. But then again you wouldn't have an exercise in a maths text book asking kids to work out how many dolls, teddies and guns had been sold. All festivals included the fun of decorating the temple with flowers and the pleasure of everyone wearing new clothes and washing their hair - great to see.

Interesting maths textbook!

Leaving the school was really hard having invested so much of my energy and attention into it for three months. We seriously debated whether or not we should go. We've enjoyed living the simple life alot. It really has its charms - from all of the tasty healthy food, to being outdoors lots, getting lots of sleep - I've just felt so fit and energised. But another consideration was that we would be leaving the school without enough teachers which is so sad and therefore it was a really difficult decision. But our feelings accurately sum up most of the potential teachers who could work there and stayfor a significant amount of time. We would start to miss freedom to roam around outside the school grounds, warm showers, contact with the outside world, choice of food etc. And that's exactly why there aren't enough teachers in the first place. Unfortunately that is one of the realities of working for a NGO in such a remote location.

Sanku (the cook who I basically spent 2 months alone with), Bansi (new co-ordinator and teacher), Lucy and Me

The school is surrounded with issues such as having too few teachers, not having anyone who can be responsible for the everyday running of the school and issues around getting funding and volunteers. I have now experienced these first hand and can see how difficult it is to sustain I truely hope that somehow the good work can continue. I love the school and will always keep thinking of it, I wish it all the best of luck.

Lots of Lovely Lucy

Reflecting on my time so far in India, I wasn't fully happy being at the school alone. I am proud of myself as I also wasn't unhappy by any means, but I think company was what was missing. I was so excited when I went to meet Lucy, who I will be travelling with from now on. We didn't stop talking for three solid days and despite now having been together for a while we still find ourselves chattering away which I didn't think would be possible having spent so much time together.
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Lucy and I in the busy backpacker area (Sudder Street)

What vividly stood out for me when I first met Lucy was how clean she smelt. I just couldn't stop sniffing her. She convinced me that paying someone to do my laundry was a good idea despite my initial reluctance to splash out a whole three pounds (half my daily budget). It sounds ridiculous that for this little money I was uncertain, but being and living in India, my idea of what is right, wrong, good, bad, clean, dirty, expensive and cheap has completely been turned on its head. My external and internal points of reference have been scrambled and I no longer no what is 'normal'.

For example I took Lucy to the 'amazing' room I'd had in Kolkata before with the great view from the window onto Sudder Street. I realised that it wasn't quite so great as I first thought. Back then having an actual mattress was a highlight after the hard bed of the school. But there was still no running water, the walls were dirty and scuffed and you definetely would not want to lay your head on the grubby brown stained pillows that were provided. We only stayed one night but I guess it was an eye opening experience for Lucy.

A festival in Kolkata with many Naked Holy Men (note the irony of the Coke Ad in the background)

I enjoyed taking Lucy around Kolkata and was able to navigate well having now spent quite a lot of time there. We went shopping which was fun as I could advise Lucy on on what Indian loose fitting tops (called Kurtas) would suit her so that we can be modestly dressed throughout our travels. I found it strange to eat in proper restaurants again as I've fallen in love with Indian street food which is delicious, but I needed to give Lucy's stomach some time to adapt. We were lucky enough, through some contacts, to spend some time at the British Council offices which were very interesting and apparently not that dissimilar looking from the London offices.

Poojas at the river early in the morning

Early one morning we took a trip to the Hooghly river to watch Hindus bathe and make religious offerings. After that we saw a religious festival where many naked holy men covered in paint (Sadhus) wandered around and performed prayers. That was very surreal and I felt like we stuck out so much being white, female (and not naked!). Lucy also met the henna ladies who lived on the backpacker street and too got reeled into spending three hours with them. All of my feeling of questioning them and how genuine they are bubbled up again but I could finally talk to someone who'd met them.

The Henna Women

It was very intriguing watching Lucy react and adapt to the craziness that I've grown in many ways accustomed to. From there being predominantly men everywhere, to hearing loud horns constantly, to being stared at to being asked personal details by random strangers such as marital status and income, to having ridiculous amounts of sugar in your tea. It can be very overwhelming but she took it in her stride. Or she did until our journey to the school...

After one hour the bus in front of us suddenly braked causing us to collide. The large, wide, front window screen smashed and completely fell through. OF course the driver continued the journey as planned as if nothing had happened. Everyone was freezing cold. Not much later I could smell melting plastic and we had to stop to fix the broken radiator. To top it off, without any warning the door suddenly fell off. Feeling strangely calm among the chaos, I tried to reassure Lucy that it was fine, although this can't have been a good first impression!

'No problem' is a phrase which I often hear Indians use. If this happened in London I would be totally shocked, but somehow in India it doesn't phase me. After all, we are still here to tell the tale and we were able to recover in the beautiful, still countryside of Jharkand. It's so good to return with someone to keep me company who I get on so well with. My lovely Lucy :-)