Falling unexpectedly in love...........

Looking at the Bagsu Waterfall, Himalayas, India

With my flight home booked for the 9th August, I felt more at ease. Admittedly I had booked it on a bit of a whim, but the idea of going home had slowly begun to creep its way into mind over the past few weeks. I kept pondering what to do next and was unsure - I didn't want to be just hanging around, I wanted stimulation, to keep learning and doing constructive things. My illness and uncertainty were the final straws that prompted me to book the flight.

The stunning view of the valley from my Guesthouse (when the view was clear!)

Having a return date in mind I wanted to make the most of the few days I had left before I surprised my family and friends in England by returning unexpectedly after 10 months! My stomach quickly recovered and I decided to get to know my surroundings better. At this point I was staying in the mountains of the Himalayas near to the town of McCloud Ganj, best known as the place where the Tibetan Goverment in exile are based. The whole town doesn't really feel Indian, there are many Tibetans everywhere, several monks and lots of Buddhist influence so it feels a bit more liberal than most places. Of course you still have your usual cows wandering around the streets.

However I was staying in Bagsu, a town about 2km away from McCloud Ganj that has grown from the many backpackers that come to stay there. It isn't a place you go to understand India culture, however as I discovered, it is a great place for learning new skills. They have classes to teach you about anything from yoga, meditation, jewelry making, dance, music, art to buddhist philosophy, massage, ayuveda (Indian traditional medicine, massage and psychology).

McCloud Ganj - home to the Dalai Lama

On a whim I decided to try the Indian Classical Singing lessons that a fellow traveller had recommended to me. I'd always wanted to have singing lessons at secondary school but was never brave enough using the excuse in my head that it was 'too late'. But it is never too late. As I had nothing to lose I thought 'why not?' and it is a decision I'll never regret. I knew as soon as I had that nervous feeling in my stomach that you get before doing something new that I was doing the exact right thing as it meant I was putting myself out of my comfort zone and if there's one thing I've learnt this trip, that is always the most rewarding path of action.

My teacher's name was Anita and like everyone that meets her, I became strangely intrigued by her. Some people you are somehow in awe of and that is what I, but also many others travellers I met, seem to experience with her. She is a completely down to earth, kind, friendly Indian middle aged woman, but there is something about her that I can't fully describe whereby she just makes you feel serene and when she smiles or laughs, it also makes you happy. I thoroughly enjoyed the first lesson with her in which I learnt about the Indian Notes (Sa Re Ga Ma Pa Dha Ni Sa) instead of Do, Re, Me, Fa etc. and got to grips with some simple exercises and Indian mantras (short chants that Hindus recite for different occasions such as for good luck, calming the mind or to worship a particular god). It was completely different to anything I'd ever tried.

Rohit (on Tabla), Anita (Singing) and Hari (Flute) at the Indian Classical Music Concert in Bagsu

That evening I went to see Anita perform in a concert with her husband Rohit who plays the Tabla (India Classical Drums) and I was fascinated. I listened in amazement and wonder to Anita's voice. She truely makes really difficult singing look effortless and was able to manipulate, bend and move her voice as if it were an instrument separate from herself. I'd heard very little Indian Classical Music and learnt just how very different it is to Western music. The sounds and the way the voice is used are completely different. Anita sounded beautiful and I was amazed by how well she could sing and it only made me want to learn more.

Me practicing my singing in the mountains

After a few lessons I was hooked and falling unexpectedly in love. Just as quickly as I had booked my flight, I cancelled it! It was so spontaneous (and probably irrational) but it felt so liberating to be trying something that I have always had a secret ambition to do. Waking up each day to go and see Anita for lessons made me happy as I felt privileged to be learning from such a talented musician, when she would sing infront of me in class it was like having a private performance. I started to have a morning class and afternoon class. In the break between classes I could practice, do errands or explore the mountains. As chance would have it, a really good friend I had made 6 months earlier in Rishikesh, turned up as he was doing a three month ayuveda course so in the evening I also had someone to spend time with and relax. I quickly settled into a routine and started to feel at home....

The steps up to my Guesthouse during monsoon (this was a normal day of rain)

Perhaps my feeling of being a home was because of the rain? Monsoon had crept in and I was in one of the places that gets the most rainfall in India. But it didn't phase me as I sort of missed rain and had never experienced this type of weather before so was quite intrigued as to what it would be like and how people can go about their daily lives. It also meant it was low season so Bagsu was very quiet and cheap. It rained ALOT..... for the first two weeks I couldn't even see the view because I was permanently in a big misty cloud. It would rain continuously for most of the day or night causing floods of water to flow down the hills, but at least it was diverted down, I imagine that in a city it would be a nightmare. I had to permanently carry round an umbrella and invest in some plastic shoes but actually really enjoyed singing in the rain with my umbrella and having the mountains to myself as everyone else wanted to be inside. It was a very pretty location as the rain made everything very green. The only downside was everything in my room started to become mouldy.

Performing with Anita at the concert in Bagsu

Things in Bagsu just got better and better. My singing classes were going well and I was invited to sing with Anita at her weekly concert alongside her and her husband. I was so nervous but very honoured to be asked, it was such a new experience for me that I really, really enjoyed - it was a bit of a dream. I introduced the mantras and accompanied Anita on a couple of songs attempting to sing harmonies with her and not be overwhelmed with just how high they sing in classical music. I eventually ended up singing in three concerts during my time in Bagsu and am so grateful to Anita and Rohit that they gave me these opportunities to develop my confidence. It was fun to get ready, dress up, wear jewelry and makeup as I was so used to my smelly, old backpacker clothes. I was also very happy that new friends turned up to come and support me. There was a very magical feeling in the air, especially during my second concert where the room was completely full of people and there was an atmosphere of appreciation for the music in the air. It was such a great feeling to have people come up to me at the end to tell me that they really enjoyed it.

People playing music at Ohm Star Cafe

I was beginning to wonder what I'd done in a past life to deserve such amazing times because just to make things even better, I had managed to get into a situation whereby I kept being given free massages because of the kind of people I kept meeting in Bagsu who were taking courses and needed to practice! It was a hard job but someone has to volunteer for these types of difficult jobs. To add to the fun, I often would spend evenings in Ohm Star cafe where people would be playing live music. During the day, I did lots of practicing, walking around the mountains to keep fit and on my occasional days of I would go to explore nearby waterfalls or eat sushi (surprisingly good) in McCloud Ganj.

It's funny to think just how close I was to leaving Bagsu but I actually ended up staying there for six whole weeks and having the time of my life. I can't forget my days of monsoon rain and singing in concerts, it's a whole world away from my England life and I just felt so incredibly relaxed after that. Since Bagsu, seeing a bit of rain makes me quite happy. I wonder how long that will last when I get back to England!