It wasn't all perfect......

My goodness - I'm still going on about Hawaii.....it was just such a unique experience I have to finish telling the stories.  Also, this post will make me feel better about no longer being there as it's about some of the pitfalls of living in the valley; I have quite a romantic notion of that time and place and remembering the injuries, illness, bad weather and dirt helps to  balance it out!

Weather issues

Although we were blessed with sun most of the time, island weather is notoriously unpredictable.  When we first arrived in Kauai and wanted to get to the Valley, we were held back several times by hurricane warnings.  Apparently this year there was an El Ninio and as a result, hurricanes were not uncommon.  However after about the 7th warning, with no hurricane actually occuring, we decided that we had to just go for it and catch the boat in.  The boatmen are highly experienced sailors and would certainly never set off if they had any concerns about safety so we just arranged a date and got out there and of course there was no hurricane the day we set out.

However the weather wasn't great.  It was unexpectedly rainy for our first week in the Valley - so much so that living in just a small tent was just unbearable.  Our tent wasn't tall enough to even stand in and so if we wanted to do anything other than lay down, we would need more extensive shelter.  We discovered the art and science of 'tarpology'.  Alot of effort goes into tying up tarps in the trees using ropes.  There's much to consider, which branches to use, how high to go, what angle to put it at so that the water pours off where you want it to. We were lucky that within the first couple of days we were hooked up with a spot that had a huge tarp, extremely well hung up, so that we had plenty of space to cook under and make a fire.  This helped us move beyond simply just surviving outdoors.

Yet the next issue was the mosquitos.  Agh..they're a pain.

Going stir crazy....

Our spot was set back slightly from the beach in the forest and it wasn't long before mosquitos would bother us whenever we sat down.  We were told smoke from the fire would help to get rid of them, but it's hard keeping a fire going when all of your wood is wet and to be honest, it only works if you stand directly in the smoke, which is not a pleasant experience - that's what people usually try to move away from when sitting around the fire! So we couldn't really sit comfortably in our own camp.

Mosquito bites were so annoying!

Also disheartening was that we couldn't really explore much.  If we went hiking or walking up the valley, as soon as you stood still for five seconds, swarms of mosquitos would attack.  This happened to me a few times and I tried to avoid it by being covered up, putting on mosquito repellant but they'd simply bite me through my clothes. I must have one of the blood types that they find overly appealing as I'm that person that always gets bitten first.

I'm particulalry sensitive to mosquito bites, my legs just looked like I had some kind of weird skin disease as I'd have tens of bites, all of which would flare up and oh boy did they itch!  'Don't scratch', Scott kept telling me, but I found it immensley difficult not to as the sensation of itchyness was just overbearing.  Again, I got told many remedies to calm the itching down by various people - from banana peel, to aloe vera, to herbal ointments such as calendula.  Nothing seemed to vaguely help, apart from diving into the salty sea which would temporarily ease the sensation.  But I couldn't really find any relief, apart from occasionally giving in and having a good scratch. It also made it difficult to get to sleep on some nights as it was just so all consuming and really can drive you a bit crazy.

Don't slip up in the jungle

The rain also meant that we couldn't do much hiking as it was just simply so slippery.  It might rain for only half the day but that was enough to mean it was very muddy going down the hills and hence quite dangerous.  We did attempt it one day when it looked dry, but having collected the fruits we wanted, the heavens opened as we made our way back to camp.  We were carrying quite heavy goods and all of a sudden, Scott slipped and had a huge fall, landing (thankfully) on him bum, although at the time it looked like it could have been on his back from where I stood.

Scott just after injuring himself in the makeshift sling that I made (he doesn't look very happy does he?)

He went into shock and was a bit dazed at first, needing to sit down.  What I hadn't realised at the time is that he had also landed alot of the weight on his left elbow.  He was in a great deal of pain and it was quite worrying.  He could barely move his arm at all, his range of motion became very limited.  There were about ten days of worry within which he could do very little with the arm.  He did feel that the motion was slightly coming back, but it was just really unnerving not knowing quite what was wrong with it and how serious it was.  And so we had to boat out to get it checked.

In all honestly we didn't want to wait ten days to get it seen to but hiking out with only one good arm wasn't an option as it would be so slippery and thus very dangerous, with a high likelihood of further injury.  On the other hand, he also wasn't able to swim to the boat to get on it - there's no pier as it's not an official drop off point.  Normally if people need emergency help, they can get a helicopter, but we knew this was too extreme.  So we had to wait long enough for it to heal so he could swim.

Coincedently at that time, I also needed to seek my own medical treatment.  One of the mosquito bites that had bothered me a great deal on my ankle had been scratched open and gotten infected.  Believe me when I say that it's pretty much impossible to keep any wound clean in those circumstances.  A plaster simply comes off immediately and it is so easy for a grain of sand, a little bit or dust or a splash of mud to get into any cut.  It's very hard to stay clean when you're living outdoors, particularly when it's wet and if you have cuts on your feet you can't really wear shoes, but then again if you don't you have the dirt issues again!

Yuck - my feet often looked like this as the wetness made it hard to keep anything clean!

I tried many treatments for the would before resulting to taking antibiotics prescribed by the doctor, but I just couldn't heal it myself and the wound began to grow wider and deeper and so I knew it had to be attended to.  Scott also had a similar wound on his foot that also needed attention and many people around us got infected cuts.  Even the long term folks were getting them which was extremely unusual.

Thankfully for Scott's arm an x-ray showed that the elbow was just strained and wouldn't need any special treatment, just the healing of time.  My infected ankle also healed nicely.  We were instructed to soak our feet in epsom salt twice a day, which I ended up rather enjoying, it's quite relaxing!  I think our little break was very much needed to recuperate.

A brewing storm (or tsunami!)

The only other situation that I would describe as less than ideal whilst I was out there was the 'tsunami incident'.  One evening a guy I didn't recognised rushed passed our camp shouting to us that a tsunami was coming at 2am that evening and that if we wanted to get back to the main part of the island we could get on the boat.  This really got the rumor mill going and slowly most tourists trickled out onto the boats.  We didn't really know what to think, we were aware that the weather warnings in the past we'd been given never seemed to be accurate and also that this part of the island tended to have really good weather, even when it was bad on other parts of the island.  Everyone started giving their opinion on the situation but no one really knew anything.

But we'd never had a tsunami warning before.  Hurricaine....yes.....tsunami....no!  However we found that the local folk who live out there long term, were staying put.   One of the older men, explained he'd heard it all before and most likely the boat men were just saying it to make a bit more money by boating out people.  This reassured me.  But I still felt an element of risk.  I heard my mother's voice in the back of my head 'now you stay safe Renee and look after yourself'.  I questioned whether not moving during a potential tsunami situation qualified as not looking after myself.

And so it was this that kept me up all night, in two minds wondering if I'd made the right decision to stay.  We were sleeping practically on the beach by this point and the waves just sounded so much louder than normal to me.  Scott lay sleeping, oblivious to my concerns and eventually I was forced to wake him up to tell him we needed to at least move back onto the cliffs.  Of course, he rolled back to sleep telling me not to worry and it was too dark to do that. Then I decided I should just go anyway and leave him to die alone if I had to!  But then I questioned that again....

Eventually Scott woke up enough to calm me down and I reasoned that if I did die in a tsunami, my mum would kill me, but by then I'd already be dead so that wasn't really an option?!  And if I was to die, swept away by tsunami whilst living in paradise wasn't a bad way to go.  I woke up the next day extremely sleep deprived but alive and well with alot of 'I told you so' from Scott.  This was one of the few times I felt anything close to real concern about the situation I was in, but now looking back at the story at least I can tell it with a smile on my face!

Camp sitting

The camping setup

When you arrive in the Valley you can decide how close you want to set up your camp to others. We very much had our own privacy in the two different camps we were in during our five weeks out there.  Both were a short walk from other people so it was easy when we wanted to socialise or cook with others, yet the shrubbery and bushes provided the perfect shelter from the main trail and other camps when we wanted to just have our own space or to retreat.

Our first camp located in the forest just back from the beach

The camping options were:

Along the beach - for a wonderful sea view and the soothing sound of the waves to send you to bed. Though this is the most popular option, so it's the busiest.

In the woods - slightly set back from the beach, you have a bit more privacy and space but you miss the sea view.

In the jungle - if you follow the trail up the Valley into the jungle you can really get some alone time and be surrounded by nature.  This is where the longer term residents hide out away from the tourists and build their super camps. 

Can we keep you please?!

People were really generous with lending us things such as comfy padded mats to sleep on and cast iron pans to explore cooking things like bread.  But the best thing we shared had to be Kiki the kitten!  Kiki used to live in the wild but Mike, not his real name, would put leftover food out for the few wild cats that were dotted around.  He also added a few tins of tuna into the mix and before long a cat called Tipsy was the first to gradually become domesticated.  She was confident coming into the camp, but came more for the food than the attention.  However Kiki was younger and became the cutest and tamest of the cats, she certainly got her fair share of affection and I am sure she must be one of the happiest cats alive as every visitor comes with new admiration and interest in her.  

Kiki the Kitten!

She is the cuddliest, most docile kitten I have ever met, who would even let me carry her around in a sling around my neck (yes a bit keen I know) and would miaow at our tent in the morning for cuddles and attention.  What a treat to have around, and so nice that she spent a lot of her time at our camp as it really added to our experience.  I love having animals around as it makes me think that perhaps there isn't that much we 'have' to do as human beings.  Most creatures are just living, doing their thing and even that can create a great deal of joy.  It also reminds me of the satisfaction and happiness that comes from building relationships, whether that be animal to human or human to human - isn't that ultimately what matters in life and is what you remember?

Spot the kitten...

Our dream camp

The beach camp we had the privilege of inhabiting during the second half of our stay was wonderful.  We'd been told by a local that we could care take that spot whilst the long term resident was away. The camp had it all - the sound and view of the sea, sunrise and sunset, lots of handy equipment like nice bedding and a mosquito net and of course Kiki the kitten.  

However not only did we 'cat sit' and 'camp sit' but we also 'garden sat'! The person who had set up the camp had started their own mini garden containing lots of edible plants including chili, basil, papaya, spring onions and tomatoes.  We planted mint, squash and avacado whilst we were there.  It was just incredible that it was so easy be able to grow food using the seeds we'd find in the jungle or by taking cuttings.  The squash seeds we planted grew 3cm in just the first week of being planted. Already in the camp was a date palm, with so much fruit on it and within two seconds walk were orange and lemon trees as well as java plum trees.  It really is so satisfying to be able to eat what is growing around you.

Garden Sitting

Making the most of what's out there

Time and time again I was amazed and surprised at how easy and rewarding it was to make the most of what was already there.  Scott and I would keep commenting how much we really were living in abundance.  

When we needed basic food supploes, someone who was about to hike out would turn up and donate the goods they didn't want to carry.  When Scott cut his toe on a rock we decided flip flops would be useful - half an hour later I found a pair left behind on the beach, perfectly intact in the right size.  When we talked about how useful it would be to have a chopping board - lo and behold Scott found a long abandoned camp with loads of items that would make our living more comfortable such as a fold out chair.

The abandoned camp full of goodies for the taking

(has since been cleaned up)

The abandoned camp came in handy though it upset us all that it was left in such a state and the owner hadn't even bothered to make a rubbish pile or give the stuff to others.  But I must add that this abandoned camp was an exception, overall camps are left in good shape either with no stuff, or in a tidy way with items that the next person staying there might want (like pans or cooking utensils). Apparently the person who stayed at the now abandoned camp had had to leave in a hurry - a bit of a dodgy character!  Somehow the Valley has a way of weeding out the people that shouldn't be there. 

We were lucky to find the camp before it had been disbanded by the long timers who clean up the place and collect anything that could be of use to them.  

I certainly felt like we were 'glamping' (glam-camping) as the norm for me when camping at festivals is that I have to catch a train and thus only bring what I can carry in a large rucksack on my back.  I usually waddle along with this backpack, guitar in hand and another bag of food and try to bring only the basics  (apart from glitter but luckily that is light weight so doesn't count!).  I jealously eye up fellow campers who have arrived by car as they bring out their double blow up air mattress and camping chairs!  But this time, it was us with that plush set up - the list of things we aquired whilst there, it's really quite absurd....

Living in abundance

Living with little

I don't often meet people who really want to live in the middle of nowhere; the idea of being without electricity, mobile phones, internet, hot showers and the protection of a home doesn't appeal to most.  Perhaps the idea seems just terrifying or too hard to even conceptualise.  Yet I found it to be one of the most enjoyable and fulfilling experiences of my twenty eight years on this planet and recommend a period of simple living to all as a way of appreciating what you have and what you really need to live.  It's refreshing to take a step back from everyday life to get perspective.  

Our dream camp on the beach

Two major factors meant the experience was a pleasurable one - 

Great weather - being in Hawaii meant that the weather was generally sunny and warm, making outdoor living and sleeping pleasant.  This becomes a drudge when it's cold or wet as you are spending so much energy on staying dry and warm.

Great people - the fact that a brilliant community of people has formed in the Valley meant that I didn't feel isolated or lonely, which I have experienced in the past in remote areas which is really difficult.  I also enjoyed going there with another person, as it was quite out of my comfort zone and having someone to live it with, means you can appreciate the good bits and work out any difficulties together.  We were surrounded by people who could teach us how to live in this environment and to be resourceful and the fact that everyone is really generous means it is a place of harmony.

These factors allowed us to get the most out of living a simple, outdoor lifestyle without what most see as the 'bare essentials'. Thus if it is something you ever want to try, great weather and people are important factors to bear in mind when deciding how and where to do it!  However I can't sugar coat it, there are always difficulties in any situation which will be covered in the next blog............ 

Aloha Spirit Alive and Well

Yes I've returned back to England, ready for the next adventure; aka living back with the parents and job hunting! However I'm continuing to finish and update the blog of my travels as writing my experiences down is a chance to relive them, remember what I have learnt and it serves as a reminder that it really did happen and wasn't just a dream. 

Community is everything

One of the things I was most curious about prior to reaching the Valley was the way people would organise themselves and how they'd live together away from roads, shops and electricity. I had my reservations - would it just be hippies living out there in attempt to escape society? How harmoniously can people really live? Would I have enough space, privacy and time to myself or would I be inducted into some kind of cult?

Exploring the Valley

Despite these reservations, I very much felt, and feel more than ever, that community is important. Over the past few years I became fascinated by ways in which people could unite, realising the potential of what humans can achieve together is far greater than alone. I'd been trying to encourter different types of communities to understand what works well and not so well. My dad's tales of kibutz living in his younger years had somewhat disheartened my idealism about group working and living situations and I heard tales from others of reasons it can't work - personality clashes, power struggles, varying levels of commitment, different beliefs etc. The politics sounded exhausting and it's easy to see why people would prefer just to live their own lives.

Yet my personal experience in the past three years of community situations (including those where people live or work together) has proved otherwise and all of the different types of communities that I've been part of or encountered are flourishing, growing in size and are creating richness for the people involved.

Aloha Spirit Alive and Well
The Valley was no exception and I was pleasantly surprised by how respectful and sharing people were. The sense of community, or as they'd say in Hawaii - 'Aloha Spirit', is very much alive and thriving, despite the unusual dynamic of it being a fairly transient community. This was a good reminder to me that you can find great people wherever you go.

At any one time there are between ten to twenty long term residents who live in the Valley permanently.  Their camps tend to be far from any other people, impossible to find without being shown.  Camps were amazingly sophisticated and charming, created with a great deal of thought and effort.   Residents had created incredible wooden structures to sleep under, they'd collected and carried stones from the beach to create patios, walls and walkways and had built fire pits and cooking facilities. The 'hardcore' Valley veteran, as I like to call them, leave only a few times per year to fetch supplies. The still dedicated (but more sensible ones!) leave for the challenging wet months escaping the constant rain and thus avoid having to spend months preparing by ensuring they have enough wood and food supplies.

The cooking facilities

A handful of people, myself and Scott included, stay for a good chunk of time such as a few weeks, or a month. These are those who are 'in the know' and come with proper supplies planning to stay. However for some that go there, the beauty of the place just draws them in and their other plans to visit the rest of the Hawaiian islands melt away. Why go else where when you are already in paradise?

'David' (not his real name) was a popular character who had made it a tradition to visit for a month every year in October and saw it as a vital part of his sanity! The long term residents look forward to him coming every year and have built deep friendships with him. Each visit he opens up his camp to everyone, hosting bonfires and providing people with morning coffee and pancakes. People come with their instruments to play music and bring offerings of fresh fruit, foraged from the jungle to contribute. It's a wonderful atmosphere.

It can be hard for people to leave when this is the view!

The majority of people staying in the Valley hike in, stay just a night or two and then depart again, which is a shame as there is just so much to see and experience there, but it does keep it dynamic and interesting. If they are unlucky (or lucky depending on how you look at it) they can be stuck there for a few days if the weather is too wet to hike out because the trail gets too dangerous.

No going hungry in the jungle
One wonderful aspect of the community there is that regardless of whether you're there one night, one month, or even one year, you're welcomed with open arms; so long as you're respectful of others and the nature around you. There's the most amazing sense of sharing what you have - the wisdom of 'you give and you shall receive' rings true.

There were just so many nights that Scott and I had the most delicious dinner made for us that you just wouldn't expect living in the wild; from pizzas (jungle style cooked on an open fire) to fish stews, pancakes, fruit pies, curries to freshly caught goat and prawns. The list goes on. The food was of such great quality and you just felt so truely nourished. In return, whenever we cooked and whatever it was, we would welcome others to join us or we would bring our meal to another camp to share.

Jungle cooked pie made of pastry, fruits and topped with raw chocolate

I was astounded by how organically this worked - there was always enough food for eveyone without lots of formal planning. It was an adjustment to share our food as there is this innate want to cling to what you have to ensure you can take care of your own needs. It's not that I don't ever share, but I have always had limits, this experience broadened my sense of generosity because others were so generous.

In the Valley in particular your instinct is to protect and hold onto your limited supplies to ensure you never go hungry and can stay as long as possible (as it's not like you can pop to a shop out there!). Add to that the fact that getting your supplies there in the first place takes blood, sweat and tears and you want to know that in times when you seek your creature comforts that yes there will be some hidden supply of chocolate to dig into!

Yet letting go of this thinking, was extremely rewarding and beneficial. I learnt that once you start sharing what you have, however little that may be, you just can't help but continue . We all need a good balance of giving and receiving - if we're always giving we exhaust ourselves, yet if we are always taking, we don't feel fulfilled and others will grow wary of us. I truely think that deepening our generosity whilst also being able to accept other's hospitality and help is such a great way to live.

Food I foraged from the jungle; a selection of salad leaves, lemons, chillis, papaya, taro root

In the past my thinking around this was that it would be just me giving, giving, giving and others would take advantage of this, but it was the opposite in the Valley and it was just unbeleivable how much people were giving away things all of the time. My theory is that if you give generously to all, only a small handful of people wouldn't reciprocate in some way. Another way I've heard it being described is as 'paying it forwards', doing good deeds, which you'll later reap the benefits of at some point when you need the help or support. Yes, I am a dreamer and an idealist, but it makes life so much nicer! And so this is the spirit I will try to continue.....

Food in the Valley always felt abundant. Those that came for just a few days would want to hike out with as little weight as possible thus would donate their remaining food to share among the community. We aquired all sort of goodies this way - from smoked salmon and nori sheets, to macaroni cheese and teas. As I said, we were eating very well.

Sushi Wraps (with avacado, salmon & quinoa) for lunch

I was reassured knowing that if your hiked in supplies run out, that was always going to be food to forage from the forest as this is just so abundant with fruits and vegetables. Not necessarily what you would want to live off for a long time, but then again, eating only fresh fruit and vegetables is what the Hawaiians would have done when they lived here and it would make you extremely healthy!

For me food is a major part of my enjoyment of life and having eaten so well for every meal in the Valley meant that despite the fact I was living very simply outside, without electricity, I still felt like I was living well and richly, better than ever in fact. The satisfaction of sharing meals together, sharing stories, sharing music, cooking for others and being cooked for in itself felt like nourishment for everyone creating such a positive environment to live and learn in.

Feelin' free...in Kaua'i

Kaua'i, Kaua'i, Kaua'i - oh how I do love this Hawaiian island. Known as the garden isle, Kaua'i was formed by volcanoes and is the oldest of the main islands. It really is the garden of Eden with it's lush, green plants, flamboyant flowers and vast array of delicious tropical fruits growing in abundance. The warm sea and golden sands aren't too shoddy either. And if that's still not enough to tickle you, there's the epic Waimea Canyon right in the middle and several national parks that are all just stunning.  Driving around the island, there is an ongoing stream of natural beauty that draws your attention.

Waimea Canyon

To top that off, the weather is wonderfully sunny and warm with a refreshing amount of rain to keep the plants nice and healthy. Fascinatingly the weather changes hugely around different parts of the island, many of which have their own micro climate.  There is even one place that holds the record for the wettest spot on earth and the most rain in one hour - I actually avoided this place as it I felt I'd already had my fair share of rain in England.

Anyway as you can imagine adjusting to island life was tough. Somehow I managed!

In my first week everything was super surreal and of course very exciting. Not only was I back to tropical paradise and free time, I was also reunited with Scott, who I'd not seen for 2.5 years since the last visit to Kaua'i where I'd left an unfolding romance, that, for the most part, I'd let go of any attachment to, given he lives in LA and I live in London. The distance felt like too much of a barrier, teamed with the fact we'd only ever seen each other in India and Hawaii in our free spirit, holiday mode, which meant our time together always just felt like the best ever dream.

This was technically only our third meeting in four and a half years, though we both found that every time we met, it felt like no time has passed and we could pick up right where we left off. Better still, in the time we'd spent apart, we were both just doing our own things, growing stronger as individuals, not needing to cling to the other person, just wishing them the best from afar. The best kind of relationship.

The palm trees of Kaua'i

Scott could stay on the island with me for two months before having to return to work. I would then have the last month of the trip alone, which I looked forward to. It felt crazy, but also weirdly normal, to suddenly be spending all of our time together and it was just great to have this positive, adventurous, caring, funny (handsome yay) presence back in my life. So I felt very lucky for the double blessing of wonderful island and wonderful company. What more could you want?

I honestly was already on cloud nine and thought it couldn't get any better, but Scott kept assuring me the best part was yet to come.  The adventures were yet to begin and I was about to experience a whole new way of living.....